Work in a Michelin starred restaurant?
Some updates, and a reminder to take care of yourself.
Happy Friday!
Normally Friday letters are for paid subscribers, but instead of the chisme this week I’ve got a little collection of articles around the elusive, alluring, dangerous Michelin star system.
As the restaurant world shifts post-pandemic to one of delivery on demand, technology integration, and a struggle to focus on better mental health, the Michelin Guide still looms large above us.
Enjoy this during family meal, on your smoke break, or zoning out while eating over a trash can.
And if you work in a starred restaurant, are striving for success in the this facet of the industry, or are an unpaid stagiere — take extra care of yourself. (Drink water, eat a real meal, take a stretch break, call your mom— especially if you’re training abroad, okay?)
⭐️ Restaurants that receive Michelin stars are more likely to close, it seems.
“An examination of two decades of the openings and closings of New York City's elite restaurants indicates that receiving a Michelin star corresponded to an increased likelihood of restaurant exit.”
You can read the full paper here.
Essentially, it asserts that getting awarded a Michelin star creates tremendously high pressure, straining relationships with suppliers and guests with high expectations, making it hard to sustain. This is an unsurprising math problem we all intuitively can understand, but I find it interesting to see the numbers stretch over the last 20 years.
Regardless of location, price, and type of cuisine, 40% of restaurants awarded stars from 2005-2014 closed by the end of 2019.
As Giada di Stefano put it:
“While it is true that high prices allow you more leeway in terms of experimenting, for example, with different dishes, on the other hand, expectations increase and the clientele changes.
It is no longer the loyal base you have always had, but a new one composed of customers who purposely come to your restaurant even from other cities and sometimes, from abroad.
If, however, your restaurant is located in a small town off the beaten track then it is a different story. There is less competition and financial commitment required, therefore offering a better chance of survival.”
The article states “the guide has become attuned to those feelings, making sure that it takes the care to address chefs as human beings, rather than just names on a list.”
🌟 Some chefs are unprepared for the heft of receiving stars, and are ‘giving them back’ to the Guide.
Historically, this has been impossible, but the first successful return of a star was in 2018.
“There’s no dumpster out behind Michelin’s offices where a restaurant can toss its stars when it doesn’t want them anymore,” the RR article says.
Le Suquet, in the south of France, held stars for 18 years before Sebastian Bras decided he no longer wanted to cook under the “huge pressure” of the Michelin Guide. He was the first to give up stars, and the Guide honored his request, saying he just wanted to cook “without wondering whether my creations will appeal to inspectors.”
It looms large in the minds of many who labor for prestige, especially since the historic pressure has contributed to the deaths of several talented chefs who sit at the top of gastronomy’s greatest honor.
Bonus Reading:
What I Learned Working in a Michelin Starred Restaurant, which sums up neatly in conclusion, “after this restaurant experience, I headed back to tech. :)”
What a Michelin server eats on $18/hour. I like reading about how industry workers live, it’s one of those things that really scratches an itch for me. Something about only making $18 an hour, living in your parents basement and stocking your pantry with alliums makes me contemplate the irony of how those who make incredible food are never able to afford going out to eat it, and are relegated to eating good butter and stocks at home. Those that would perhaps appreciate worshipping at the great gastronomic temples the most will rarely get the opportunity to experience them.
Lisa Abend, author of 2011’s The Sorcerer’s Apprentice, wrote beautifully about the stage system here on her Substack, Bord.
I think it’s also important to point out that there are many, many chefs who, despite the hardships of their stages, value the experience and look back on it fondly. They didn’t make it into the FT piece, but they’re easy to find, maybe even easier than those that regret their stages. This is highly anecdotal, but my own experience talking with chefs through the years—and observing the legions who continue to volunteer for stages, even after they’ve obtained paid jobs— suggests that the most common reaction is mixed—an acknowledgement that stages are difficult, but that they’re ultimately worth it.
Hit me with your thoughts, and good luck with your weekend!
