The Restaurant Industry Is Doing... Okay?
A peek at the state of the industry from Yelp's latest report, some local JC businesses worth celebrating, and some timely memes.
Good evening, and godspeed to you weekend warriors with sunny patios on this gorgeous, early summer weekend. May all of your large parties tip well tonight, and may none of your dishwashers call out. Amen.
I’m writing to you from my over-caffeinated writing desk as the scent of perfect, fragrant, basmati rice wafts through my kitchen. I was blessed by the culinary gods last night, fortunate enough to have had my first Dawat dinner at Korai Kitchen, which I am utterly besotted with. I was a fan of Nur-E and her mom already, but the intimate, wonderful meal they presented last night was something completely magical. I’ll write more about that soon.
Anyway, it was eight(?) courses — three hours long — and gifted diners with so many leftovers it’s like a second feast. It is my lunch, and I am grateful. Thank you, Korai! A full writeup on the experience soon, because I can’t help myself.
While I have some very fun and interesting interviews in the works, I thought today might be a nice weekend catch-up on the state of the industry - a little link roundup, if you will.
Right this way…
Having worked firsthand with her during the opening of Death & Co Denver and watching her shape out a lifestyle in which she advocates for wellness for the hospitality industry has been inspiring. It’s the industry shift that is simmering under the surface, the future we’re all looking for. If you don’t follow her projects, start here with FOH — to sum it up in their words: “At Focus on Health, our mission is clear: to enrich the lives of those who dedicate themselves to taking care of others. Whether you're a bartender, a server, a chef, or anyone in between, we're here to support you on your journey to a healthier, happier you.”
Perhaps my favorite and most succinct response to the question, “What would you like to see more of in the hospitality industry?” is hers. She replied, “Not being asked to sacrifice your health and wellbeing in order to put everyone else or your career first.”
If that doesn’t sound like a future you’re interested in for the hospitality industry, I don’t know if we can be friends tbh.
I’m finding the Baldor x Sussmans collab to be perfect meme-meets-industry moment.
This seems to be the peak of the lightning-fast modern viral restaurant industry era, or at least I think so. It combines so many things that I think are clever …and extraordinarily niche, but if you’re reading this, you’re probably in on the joke.
Weeks after these tees — and the Peak Season hat, my personal favorite — debuted at Baldor BITE, folks are still repping the merch, which is currently sold out. Baldor BITE, if you don’t know, is the gigantic, “dynamic meeting-of-the-minds that brings together chefs, growers, producers, innovators, and visionaries to build bonds across the supply chain and exchange ideas that will forge the future of food.”
You can attend the event, eat, listen to panels, and generally enjoy being hosted by one of the largest importers of produce and specialty ingredients… provided you have an active Baldor account when the event rolls around. (Otherwise you can plan on spending a few hundred bucks on a ticket.)
And, of course, Meme King/Chef Eli Sussman’s photo shoot is a timely reference to Jeremy Allen White’s larger-than-life Hanes ad, which rode the coattails of The Bear’s smashing television success.
I can attest personally to the insane reach of the ad — I had women asking me if I’d seen the billboard while I was on shift at a breakfast cafe, watching them pull of up photos of the ad on their phones to giggle at.
Here’s a rather unhinged New Yorker piece on the subject, if you’re into that sort of thing.
Anyways, I found a chef collabing with a giant delivery company to be timely, generally hilarious, and exactly the kind of sarcastic romanticization of the industry that I genuinely enjoy so much. Paired with the timing of the Jeremy Allen White ad and the popularity of The Bear, this is a snapshot of exactly what the state of BOH in 2024 looks like. We will look back on this moment, I’m sure.
Speaking of, season 3 of The Bear will be out this month, do we have thoughts? Can you watch the show without PTSD? Genuinely curious.
Yelp’s ‘State of the Restaurant Industry’ is a very interesting read.
Speaking of Peak 2024 Restaurant snapshot, what perfect timing!
Here are the takeaways:
🥡 Pop-ups and dessert concepts are thriving. Yelp defines pop-ups as ‘new temporary concepts with limited menus’ and claims they’re up 155% — the industry’s most significant area of growth.
🥩 High-end restaurant openings have slowed, with diners struggling to reconcile their budgets with increasing menu prices.
💸 Self-checkouts aren’t going anywhere for quick-service restaurants. This isn’t unique just to restaurants, since technology is booming across nearly every business sector, but it does pose an interesting new customer service model. It also begs the question: why tip if not encountering a real person during an interaction? Tips are (historically) a reflection of exceptional service, not a supplement to an employee’s paycheck… but this is a sensitive subject. And it has its own phrase: tipflation.
Let’s talk about childcare for restaurant staff.
We need some solutions, guys. It has been three years since this article came out, and I still think about it daily. I only bring it up because there is hauntingly so little about this topic out there, and I think it’s time to do a deeper dive. Keep an eye out for some pieces in this vein.
If you work in the industry and have kids, message me!
Guy Fieri will appear on the next season of Hell’s Kitchen apparently.
I say this for two reasons. No, I will not be covering reality food television regularly in this newsletter, but this is an exception!
First, admittedly, I do love Hell’s Kitchen the most out of all restaurant television shows. Mostly because it makes people cry on the line in a realistic way — I like the team dynamics, the good feedback, and the pressure.
I also love Guy Fieri. I was there from his first appearance on The Next Food Network Star on 2005 (I was 10) and guess what? That guy really gives a fuck about the industry. He’s aged well — not as a chef, necessarily, but as an industry peer and restauranteur who stays on top of what’s going on. All it takes is a glance at the diners, drive-ins or dives he frequents with genuine enthusiasm to know — this guy loves restaurants. (Perhaps another entire newsletter on Guy Fieri sometime?)
I was offered a slot on this exact season of Hell’s Kitchen — after having told the production crew that the celebrity chef I’d like to meet the most in the world was Guy Fieri, completely unaware that this opportunity was in the wings.
Sadly, I turned down the opportunity so that I could write this newsletter — you’re welcome!!!
This is a true story, and maybe this also deserves its own letter? Raise your hand if you care to hear this long and winding adventure tale of television life rights and ironclad contracts with Fox, and gossipy screenshots of conversations with producers.
Now, a bit of local news to the JC/Hoboken/NYC area:
Erica from Darke Pines has officially launched A Southern Chef, and she’s shipping a lovely collection of goodies, from her famous rice krispies to local jerky. And when I say famous, I do not mean it lightly: people are obsessed.
Erica is great at many things — making delicious food and curating remarkable objects are two of her greatest feats, brought together in this fun, experimental project. Oops, there’s a third thing: she writes a great newsletter.
She’s hosting a pasta making class (with the promise of pie!) on the 29th. I would attend if my own family weren’t in town — I’m taking my little brother out drinking for his 21st birthday in the Big Apple, so I’ll regrettably not be in attendance, but you should go! Link to the class right here.
That’s all I have for now! The sun is setting and it’s time for a patio rose along with my Korai leftovers. 🤤
Anything interesting I missed or you want to talk about? Message me! I’m listening!
Cheers,
OMG - thank you, Erin! I love your newsletter - what a way to spend a wild and crazy Saturday night in JC! Such great links - and I appreciate the call out - made me cry after a long day of packing boxes. THANK YOU!
DEFINITELY dying for the Hell’s Kitchen tea. The logistics behind those big network shows are FASCINATING! 🤩